Vintage Madeira "...when this wine was vintaged Marie Antoinette was still alive."
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The 1792 Blandy’s Madeira, the so-called “Napoleon” vintage
A unique cache of 12 bottles.
Vintage Madeira and the very fine old soleras are invariably rare, venerable and highly priced (although still astonishingly cheap compared
to similarly aged port, Bordeaux or Sauternes, none of which have anything like the same longevity). Sustained both by fortification and by
its high acidity, Madeira seems to be an almost indestructible wine: a vintage of 30 years age still being in its infancy, one of 60 barely in
its prime and almost all vintages over 100 still alive and vigorous.
19th century vintage Madeira is increasingly scare and sought after, but 18th century Madeira, now entering its third century, is most
desirable of all.
All eighteenth century vintage Madeira is rare, but this Bual is arguably the most spectacular bottling of all. Only the 1790 Terrantez can
compare, but that, while just as rare, doesn’t have the same fascinating and romantic history.
On August 7, 1815, a British warship, the HMS Northumberland, taking Napoleon to St. Helena for his final exile stopped at Madeira to take
on supplies. Napoleon was persuaded to purchase a pipe of Madeira (A pipe is a barrel containing a little less than 600 bottles). The pipe
was never opened by Napoleon as he developed a severe gastric complaint and his doctors forbade him to drink any alcohol. After the ex-
Emperor’s death in 1821, there was a dispute over payment of the pipe and it was returned to Madeira where it lay with Blandy’s until
1840. Most of the wine - an estimated 400 bottles - was then used to make the famous solera of 1792, but some bottles - perhaps 200 -
were filled using only the wine from Napoleon’s pipe. These bottles are immensely rare, with only a few still in existence – this cache of 12
is probably the largest holding extant anywhere. Occasionally bottles from the 1792 solera come on to the market, but an opportunity to
buy even a single bottle of the unadulterated vintage 1792 wine is a very rare event indeed.
A bottle of this wine was opened as a special honour for Sir Winston Churchill on a visit to Madeira in 1950. Sir Winston insisted on
serving each guest himself, asking "Do you realise that when this wine was vintaged Marie Antoinette was still alive?".
In 1792 the French revolution was reaching its climax – in August the Tuileres Palace was stormed and Louis XVI arrested and taken into
custody. In 1792 Mozart had been dead for less than a year and Rossini was born. George Washington was President of the United
States.
The bottles are in excellent original condition with very good levels - top shoulder or base of neck - but no longer have any labels or
stencilling at all. This is typical of this bottling in particular, and 18th century vintage Madeira in general - those bottles that are found
labelled usually have more modern labels applied afterwards, by Christies amongst others. The bottles were purchased in the late 1980's
by a senior and highly respected member of the British wine trade, who personally vouches for their provenance as follows:
"These wines were personally removed by me many years ago from the cellars of Abbey Leix in Ireland, the then home of Viscount de
Vesci. I have seen the cellar records to confirm that the details are correct – 1792 Blandy’s Madeira."
To the best of his knowledge the bottles were purchased by the de Vesci’s in the mid nineteenth century directly from Blandy’s and never
touched until he purchased them from the family over a decade ago. He's tasted one of the bottles, and says it is absolutely superb, the
finest Madeira he's ever drunk. Of course it's a pity there isn't a trace of the original stencil or label still remaining, but this isn't at all
unusual for bottles of this age. The provenance - critically important for wines more than two centuries old - is extraordinarily well
documented. The bottles themselves are hand-blown black glass with deep punts, and quite clearly late 18th century/early 19th century.



The 1792 Blandy's Madeira SOLD
Click on the thumbnails to see enlarged images.
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Another example of
the same bottling,
from a continental
collection. Note the
distinctive shape of
the hand-blown bottle,
which appears to be
unique to this
particular vintage.
The sale of Abbey Leix, where the bottles lay for more than a
century, in the mid 1990's.
Click on the thumbnails to see enlarged images.
A late eighteenth century
Bual, in a marvellously
lobsided bottle, from the
same cellars. SOLD.
Click on the thumbnail to
see an enlarged image.
Blandy's Luscious Malmsey Solera 1808
Date on neck label has faded to illegibility, an
auction house at some stage has added the
additional sub label. A blockbuster Madeira from
a two century old vintage.
SOLD
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The roots of Madeira's wine industry dates back to the Age of Exploration when Madeira was a regular port of call
for ships traveling to the New World and East Indies. By the 16th centuries, records indicate that a well established
wine industry on the island was able to supply these ships with wine for the long voyages across the sea. The
earliest examples of Madeira, like port, were unfortified and had the habit of spoiling at sea. Following the example
of port, a small amount of distilled alcohol made from cane sugar was added to stabilize the wine by boosting the
alcohol content. (The modern process of fortification using brandy did not become wide spread till the 18th
century). The Dutch East India Company became a regular customer, picking up large (112 gal/423 l) casks of
wine known as pipes for their voyages to India. The intense heat and constant movement of the ships had a
transforming effect on the wine, as discovered by Madeira producers when one shipment returned back to the
island after a long trip. It was found that customers preferred the taste of this style of wine, and Madeira labeled as
vinho da roda (wines that have made a round trip) became very popular. Madeira producers found that aging the
wine on long sea voyages was very costly and began to develop methods on the island to produce the same aged
and heated style - typically by storing the wines in special rooms known as estufas where the heat of island sun
would age the wine.
The 18th century was the "golden age" for Madeira with the wines popularity extending from the American colonies
and Brazil in the New World to Great Britain, Russia and Northern Africa. The American colonies, in particular, were
enthusiastic customers, consuming as much as a quarter of all wine produced on the island each year. The mid
19th century brought an end to the industry's prosperity, first with the 1852 outbreak of powdery mildew which
severely reduce production over the next three years. Just as the industry was recovering through the use of the
sulfur-based treatments, the phylloxera epidemic that had plagued France and other European wine regions
reached the island, and devastated the entire Madeira vineyard. By the end of the 19th century, most of the island's
vineyards had been uprooted and many were converted to sugar cane production. By the turn of the 20th century,
sales started to very slowly increase again, only to again collapse when the Russian Revolution and American
Prohibition closed off two of Madeira's biggest markets.
The rest of the 20th century saw a downturn for Madeira, both in sales and reputation, as low quality "cooking wine"
became primarily associated with the island - much as it had for Marsala. But towards the end of the century,
some producers started a renewed focus on quality, ripping out hybrid and American vines and replanting with the
"noble grape" varieties of Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malmsey. Madeira's greatest grape variety, Terrantez, is
almost extinct. It was introduced on Madeira in the late 1600's, and in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries
produced what I consider (and so do many experts) the greatest wines of the island. But it has a very thin skin, and
is very susceptible to rot and to mildew. This is a particular problem in Madeira, which has a hot and humid
climate. The 1852 oidium outbreak destroyed most of the Terrantez vines, followed by phylloxera, which wiped out
the rest. When the vineyards were replanted, Terrantez was abandoned, just as Folle Blanche was largely
abandoned in Cognac. After the second world war a few small patches were replanted, but even today, less than
500kg of Terrantez grapes are harvested each year, so it is as good as forgotten.
Pre-phylloxera Terrantez Madeira is the same kind of thing as pre-phylloxera Folle Blanche cognac - something
that is really gone for ever, except on the tiniest scale.
"The Leacock Cache"
Superb Madeira from the private reserve of the Leacock family, uplifted directly from the cellars of the family mansion in Funchal.
4 bottles of Malmsey Solera 1808, renowned as the greatest Madeira solera of all time.
5 bottles of Sercial Vintage 1870, the finest Sercial I have ever drunk, a quite magnificent wine
The Leacock family has been synonymous with the finest Madeira since their business was established on the Island in 1741 by John
Leacock. Successive generations established the firm's pre-eminence, alongside Blandys and Cossart Gordon, as one of the great
merchants and bottlers on the island. These wines were likely bottled for private consumption on the orders of Thomas Leacock, who took
control in 1877. The firm was finally sold to the Madeira Wine Company in 1981, and these bottles come directly from the family cellars of
William Leacock, the last head of the firm, and the great-grandson of Thomas Leacock.


Bual/Malmsey Solera 1808, Leacock bottling
1808 is one of the very greatest Madeira vintages, and the 1808 solera is legendary, regarded widely as the finest ever. There is some
uncertainty as to whether this solera should be classified as Bual or Malmsey - my own feeling is that it's likely Malmsey. Michael
Broadbent's notes are: "Medium deep, warm tawny, pronounced apple-green rim indicating age and high quality; distinctive, scented,
harmonious bouquet with a whiff of caramel, very sweet, very rich, soft lovely flavour, 5 stars *****
These Madeiras have the finest possible provenance, coming directly from the Leacock private family cellars in Funchal, they has never
left the island until now.
Price: SOLD OUT.
Sercial Vintage 1870, Leacock bottling, original corks and capsules, not recorked as these wines usually are.
1870 was one of the last two great vintages before phylloxera, and this is fantastic wine, certainly the finest Sercial I have ever drunk, with
unbelievable but perfectly balanced acidity, and a fantastic dry finish. It really illustrates how long-lived Madeira is - even a dryer wine like
this tastes as fresh as the day it was made, after nearly a century and a half.
Michael Broadbent's notes: "Pale amber with very pronounced apple-green rim, a bouquet like Vesuvious, ethereal, whiff of caramel,
medium dry, superb flavour, great length, exquisitely dry finish, 5 stars *****.
Price: GBP £1300 each/bottle, including worldwide shipping.
Terrantez C.V.M. 1795
SOLD
Moscatel D'Oliveiras 1900
SOLD
Lomelino Bastardo 1836
From the famed Leacock cellars, Bastardo was one of the
two great Madeira varietal (together with Terrantez) not
commercially replanted after phylloxera.
SOLD
Terrantez HMB - Believed 1862
Leacock
This legendary wine almost certainly originated from a
single grower, Joao Alexandrino Santo, renowned for
the quality of his grapes. HM Borges ("HMB") were
extremely important holders of old vintage wines. It
would seem that a number of shippers bought this
particular wine from them in bottle - all have the same
distinctive stencil. So although this is not dated, it is
almost certainly the 1862.
Profound nose, typical Terrantez notes of bitter
orange, immense complexity, a magical madeira. .
SOLD
Terrantez 1846
Borges
Famous vintage for
Terrantez.
Michael Broadbent:
"Magnificent: orange
tinged; the acme of
refinement yet
amazingly powerful.
What great madeira
is all about."
SOLD
Sercial 1790
Virtually unknown, exceptionally rare. Direct from
the personal cellar of descendants of the Araujo
family, still living in Madeira. Their ancestors
arrived at the end of the fifteenth century. Later the
firm of Araujo, Henriques & Co., merged with
H.M.Borges in 1932. The family still own vineyards
at Quinta do Jardim da Serra, at Estreito de
Camara de Lobos, producing what are regarded
as the finest Sercial grapes on the island.
Wonderful green tinged amber colour, medium dry
(sweeter than the typical late 19th century Sercial),
immense complexity.
SOLD
Malvasia Velha 1862
Quite magnificent,
classic vintage
malmsey from a very
great year.
SOLD
Malmesy 1920 Cossart Gordon
According to the late Noel Cossart, this
wine was made from the last of the
Malvazia Candida grapes grown in the
Fãja dos Padres vineyard, sited at the
foot of a very high cliff, to which access
was only by boat. Probably the rarest
and most romantic of all 20th century
madeiras.
SOLD
Ruma da India 1810 Cunha
India and then returned to the Island for
eventual bottling. The process of
"cooking" in the hold was in part what
gave Madeira some of its unique flavour,
and the ability to survive for centuries. The
casks went out as ballast to customers
and the rest came back to the island,
making four crossings of the Equator.
The firm of Julio Augusto Cunha was
founded in 1820 and incorporated into
Pereira d'Oliveira (Vinhos) in 1900. Variety
not stated, but almost certainly bual or
malmsey.
Direct from the personal cellar of
descendants of the Araujo family, still
living in Madeira. Their ancestors arrived
at the end of the fifteenth century. Later the
firm of Araujo, Henriques & Co., merged
with H.M.Borges in 1932.
SOLD
Quinto de Serrado Bual 1827
One of the most renowned
madeiras of all time. Highest
possible rating from every authority.
5 stars from Broadbent. A true
vintage, not a solera (nearly 200
years old!). Christies labels.
SOLD
Solera 1792 Extra Reserve
Very rare, a famous wine. Although
technically a solera, closed in the early
19th century, and the vast bulk of the
wine is believed to be from the 1790
vintage. Perfect original label and
Christie label, metal capsule. On a
visit to Blandy's lodge in 1877, this
wine was offered to Henry Vizetelly to
taste. He reported a "powerful choice
Reserve from Cama do Lobos".
SOLD


Borges Family 1720 "Pather".
Typical black glass bottle, white stencilled
date. A really legendary wine, from the private
cellars of the Borges family (not the company,
this is from the family's own private reserves).
Apart from a few bottles of 1715 Terrantez, this
is the oldest Madeira in existence. Probably a
Moscatel, but might be a Bual. Originally
purchased by the grandfather of the Borges
family (hence "Pather"). His wish was that it
would never be sold, but financial
circumstances eventually forced the family to
do so. Kept in demijohns for most of its life.
Several people have tasted it, and
pronounced it superb.
SOLD